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Slip Knot
An extremely versatile yet simple knot is the slip knot (Figure 8). It
is easy to tie, even with one hand. Experienced climbers find many uses
for this knot, often as variations of a stopper in the line. The slip
knot is a directional knot—it tightens when loaded one way but spills
when pulled from the other side.
To tie: A slip knot is tied by taking a
counterclockwise turn with the working end to the front, then capturing
a bight from the working end in the turn. The knot is asymmetric, and it
will slip from the part of the rope used to create the bight (in this
instance, the working end). This directional dependence is important in
some applications.
Almost any knot can be "slipped." Typically, it means
the final tuck of the working end is replaced by tucking a bight
instead, so that the knot can be rapidly untied by pulling on the
working end. The knot known as the slip knot, though, is a slipped
overhand knot. The bow with which we tie our shoes is a doubly slipped
square knot. Slipped knots are not appropriate for tying on tools.
Sheet Bend
The sheet bend (Figure 9) is used to join two ropes of different
diameter; it often is used to send a line up to the climber. The smaller
line should be the one tucked under its own standing part.
To tie: The
sheet bend is most easily remembered as a bowline tied with two separate
lines. With one line, make a counterclockwise turn over the standing
part. Pass the second from back to front through the turn,
counterclockwise behind the first, and back down through the turn. When
tied correctly, the two ends will exit on the same side of the knot. The
sheet bend is one of the more secure bends for lines of different
diameter.
Slippery Bend
The slippery bend (Figure 10) is similar to a
slipped sheet bend. It's easy to untie and can be instantly spilled by
pulling out the bight. It is suitable only for passing (ropes) to the
climber.
To tie: Form a bight near the end of one line, then lay the
working end of the second line over this bight. Pass the second line
behind the first, then over its own standing part. Pass a bight in the
second line into the bight from the first line.
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International Society of Arboriculture
