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littlerest@aol.com
12/23/96
Dear Little Rest
Here in Florida we have a state organization called the Florida Cooperative Extension Service. They posses a enormous amount of information (pamphlets) On just about any thing that grows.
Suggest you make some inquirers, Garden clubs etc. They should be able to steer you in the right local direction. You might also try looking for a certified Arborist in your area. His insights and experiences can easily save you a lot of time and grief.
Planning the development of your young trees is the best place to start. Their positioning should be respective to their mature size. Say about 100 feet apart. Youve most likely got more trees than you need. That's OK. You can plan on gradually reducing and removing the unwanted ones as the others develop. An Arborist can help you with these decisions. The form your trees take in the first few years of life will determine how well the tree will hold up under wind and weight stresses, later when it is mature.
An ideal form is a single trunk, with several feet of spacing between the limbs. Each limb should project away from the parent stem, not parallel. Into its own sunlight area, where it can sustain itself making its food to support its cells. Each limb or branch makes its own food with its leaves. no help is provided from another stem. Keeping this form will prevent dead limbs from occurring, the associated decays, and result in less stress failures. Shorter trees are exposed to less wind and weight stress than taller trees. Tall trees are usually the product of competition for sunlight. There is much to be said here.
Pruning is a scientific art. Form is one thing, knowing how and where to cut is another. Understanding how trees grow and defend themselves is essential. Be careful many people working in this field are in it for the work and don't know the basics. I'm not saying they are bad but they are ignorant. The wrong cuts can make the trees dangerous later.
Tree physiology isn't hard to understand at all. Unfortunately few trouble to even try. Poor pruning practices are not likely to be a problem for 10 or 20 years. But then its too late to do any thing about it. Damage is permanent and can't be repaired.
Before you hire some one quiz them a little bit to see what they know. If they don't know what C.O.D.I.T. ( Compartmentalization Of Decay In Trees) or B.B.R. (Branch Bark Ridge) is than find some one who does. Or learn it your self. If your in a small community you may not have a qualified Arborist who knows these essentials.
There are some good books on pruning. They are a good investment. $30 to $60. Getting the books is a good idea. But in the interest of time and reasoning experiences. An Arborist can help you a lot more and quicker. Most can probably get you in the right direction in about an hour.
Live Oak is a common tree. I doubt you could of chose a better species for longevity.
George schrader@beaches.net
904 769 4060
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Fri, 20 Dec 1996 01:04:09 -0600
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What is the best resource for Live Oak care and pruning information in the New Orleans area? Please recommend anything in print on this topic. For use by resident of Opalouses, LA with approx. 10 oaks from age 3 to 15 years.
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